Each summer, tourists swarm into the same parts of Norway: Bergen, Geiranger, and Lofoten, in search of postcard scenery they already have on their computer screens. What most people do not know, however, is that these iconic locations are now characterized more by crowds and prices than they are by beauty. The rest of the …
I learned this the hard way on my first rushed stop in Croatia. I checked into a room by the harbor, ate on the busiest waterfront, watched the day-trippers pour in, and went to bed wondering why people spoke about the islands with such devotion. The next morning I rented a scooter, climbed away from …











