Balkan Travel Archives | Passport Symphony

One of the most unique locations in Macedonia is Ohrid, the city under the Fortress of King Samuel. Full of churches, monasteries, beautiful beaches, archaeological sites, old streets, and the beauty of Lake Ohrid always in the background, it is a place where history and landscape appear to coexist. However, together with its cultural and historical monuments, Ohrid has another thing to offer, something smaller, more fragile, and equally symbolic- the Ohrid Pearls, and in this article, we will introduce you to this symbol of the city and teach you all there is to know about it. But first things first… What Are Ohrid Pearls? Among the greatest myths about the Ohrid Pearl is the fact that it is a natural pearl that is located within a shell. The Ohrid Pearl is not a naturally occurring pearl, as people tend to think. It is a handcrafted pearl made through a special, secret procedure. The first step is to apply the brightest part of the inner surface of a shell. This is processed until it forms a bead of the required size and shape. That is, the bottom of the Ohrid Pearl is made of shell material, which is carved into a smooth mother-of-pearl ball. It's the second stage that makes the Ohrid Pearl unique. The bead is covered with a special emulsion of the scales of the Ohrid bleak, or plasica fish. The fish scales are peeled and cooked according to a secret formula used by the two families that have been making Ohrid pearls for over a century. Article accounts state that no less than eight coats of this emulsion can be applied, each coat having to dry before the next is applied. The process is time-consuming and painstaking, as it can require up to 45 minutes to an hour to dry a single layer. It is this repetition of layering that gives the pearl its unique luminosity and lustre. Unlike a typical industrial bead, the Ohrid Pearl has a luxurious, sophisticated luster and an iridescent surface that most people find classy and exceptionally deep in color. It's that combination of beauty and secrecy that has made it so memorable. The Ohrid Pearl is not merely a piece of jewelry but a cultural symbol and, to a great extent, an ambassador of the entire Ohrid region. A Craft Guaranteed by Two Families The two Ohrid families, the Filevi and the Talevi, are at the center of the story. Traditionally, the two families are the only ones aware of the original secret for producing the Ohrid Pearl, and both have kept it close to their chests for almost a hundred years. The method has been passed down through generations, and traditionally, it is passed through the family orally rather than taught using written guidelines. In a city where pearls are sold in most of the shops, the assertion of authenticity lies most importantly in the relationship to these two families. Their names are inseparably linked with the term Original Ohrid Pearl, and they are not only taken as jewelers but as the guardians of a local tradition. The Russian Connection and the Onset of the Secret One of the most interesting aspects of the Ohrid Pearl's identity is its origin story. Family tradition holds that the secret of the pearl was introduced to Ohrid in the 1920s by a Russian emigrant called Jovan Subanovikj. He is reported to have arrived in Ohrid by accident, but during his visit, he became a close friend of Nikola Filev, the great-grandfather of Mihajlo Filev. The connection between Ohrid and Lake Baikal in Russia is what makes this story particularly interesting. Jovan is reported to have brought with him knowledge of that area, where a similar method for producing pearls was popular. As they walked along Lake Ohrid and discussed life and other topics, he and Nikola noticed fishermen with baskets of bleaks, the small fish called locally plasica. At that time, Jovan supposedly understood that the secret he had brought from Russia could also be used in Ohrid. This was due to the fish itself. The most important ingredient was plasica, an endemic species related to Lake Ohrid. Pearls could be made out of its scales. Jovan told Nikola Filev the secret technique as a sign of friendship. It was then further refined by subsequent generations of the Filevi family, and the Talevi family also became one of the two lineages entrusted with the method. The Significance of the Plasica Fish One of the largest components of the pearl mystery is the role of the plasica, an endemic species associated with the lake ecosystem, whose scales are the focus of the production process, as they are used in the emulsion that covers the shell bead. This relationship renders the Ohrid Pearl inseparable from the lake itself. It is not merely jewelry produced in Ohrid, but something whose identity is rooted in the natural world of Ohrid. Lake Ohrid is an ancient, deep lake in Europe shared by Macedonia and Albania, renowned for its remarkable biodiversity. The emerald waters of the lake are home to hundreds of species, some of which are endemic to the lake. In that regard, the Ohrid Pearl is not only a family craft but also has a direct connection to the area's landscape and ecology. Occasion, Memory, and Status Jewelry Ohrid pearl jewelry was not just ornamental; it also had social significance in the past. Previously, there were several models of necklaces linked to particular life events and visits. Various types of jewelry were used to signify events such as weddings, proposals, celebrations, and home visits. They were commonly referred to by the occasion on which they were used or presented. This indicates that the Ohrid Pearl played a more prominent role in local ritual and social life than it does for visitors today. In the contemporary world, it can be found in a display case as a refined souvenir. Yet, in the olden days, it was also part of the rhythm of family events, hospitality, and celebration. The Ohrid Pearl has earned part of its reputation from the prominent personalities who have worn it. Over the years, these pearls have been used to decorate royalty, political leaders, entertainers, and sportspeople. Some of the names in the materials are King Gustav and Queen Silvia of Sweden, Queen Margrethe II of Denmark, Giovanna of Italy, Maria Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen, and former Macedonian president Gjorge Ivanov. Other stories about Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Diana highlight how the pearl has been associated with greatness and global fame. In one version, in 2001, Queen Elizabeth II was given the Ohrid pearls by Vilma Trajkovska, the former First Lady of Macedonia and the wife of the late president Boris Trajkovski. The Ohrid Pearl as a Tourist Symbol The Ohrid Pearl is currently one of the most well-known tourist brands of Ohrid. It is met everywhere by visitors: on the walking street, in hotels, in souvenir shops, in stores all over the old town and bazaar. For many tourists, buying an Ohrid Pearl feels like buying a piece of the city. But this broad supply raises a practical question: where can the visitor purchase one? Nevertheless, it was possible to draw one definite conclusion after that experience: in case a visitor wants to purchase what is regarded as an original Ohrid Pearl, it is best to purchase it from the Filevi or Talevi families. The Talevi family store is said to be located in the central walking street in the retail section of Ohrid. It was quite small and a bit inconspicuous, and hard to find. Vane and his uncle Mihail are said to have started the business in 1924, and the secret was reportedly passed down from generation to generation by their sons. The store itself was more traditional and rustic, with a smaller selection and older displays. Some silver objects appeared to require polishing, and the exhibition was not as contemporary. But this very old-fashioned atmosphere can be attractive to certain visitors, as it suggests continuity and antique craftsmanship. The Filevi family, in its turn, is reported to have two stores in the old section of Ohrid. These stores were more contemporary, more refined, and more high-end. The choice was wider, the designs more modern, and the staff more involved in clarifying styles and choices. The Museum of the Ohrid Pearl The Museum of the Ohrid Pearl, inaugurated by the Filevi family, became a new cultural attraction in Ohrid in 2016, related to this tradition. The museum is located near the cathedral church of St. Sophia and was established to preserve and showcase the history of this renowned local craft. The interior displays tools for pearl processing, photos of the four generations of the Filevi family, and photos of presidents, queens, princesses, and other prominent people wearing Ohrid pearls. Another story displayed in the museum is that of the Russian emigrant who brought the technique, and how the Filevi family's work has lasted so long. To visitors, the museum is not just a place to display jewelry. It offers an opportunity to learn about the craft as a cultural tradition of Macedonia. It brings together technique, family memory, celebrity recognition, and local history under a single roof. More Than a Souvenir Most tourists come to Ohrid to see the lake, the old town, the churches, or the city's slow rhythm, and then they come across the pearl as one of the elements of local identity. The pearl is a gateway to Ohrid itself. It allows travelers to listen to family tales, history, myths, and local pride. Even confusion is included in the experience. In that regard, the Ohrid Pearls are an ideal travel symbol. It is not too big to bring home, nor too small in meaning to be representative of the city. The Ohrid Pearl survives because it unites several things: craftsmanship, family tradition, secrecy, lake ecology, beauty, and tourism. It is simultaneously a handcrafted item, a local brand, a cultural heritage, a generation-old story, and an object of interest to tourists. It appeals to some people because queens and celebrities have worn it. Others liked it because it is attached to a secret recipe. Others consider it beautiful. And numerous tourists purchase it as it seems to them the most unique Ohridian present they can bring home. Whatever initially attracts a person, the more significant fact is that the Ohrid Pearl is not a generic one. It is a part of a certain city, a certain lake, and a certain heritage. Two families, under the walls of the Fortress of King Samuel and by one of the oldest lakes in Europe, have preserved a trade that remains historic and mysterious. Perhaps that is why Ohrid Pearls are still one of the most valued creations of Ohrid: not because all the details are known, but because so much of the beauty is related to tradition, place, and the secrets that are still there. Like it? Pin it

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